12/26/2023 0 Comments Stair wizard pro line 2![]() At or near the end of finish trim out, they are finished as B. Rough carriages can go in at rough frame time, and can serve as "construction" stairs when treaded with temporary lumber. Stairs finished atop rough carriages (exactly like what our esteemed thread author and photographer is showing here) is a two-stage operation. I am not the authority on this, but here are my observations and thoughts. Saves a significant amount of time.and, I'm very proud to say that I have never had a call back on any set of stairs I've ever done.of course, there is that period of time I used an assumed name, and used Poly-Grip Don't worry, we can fix that later! The under riser's not going anywhere, so that's got the front edge, and the backnailed riser's not going anywhere either, so the back is covered. ![]() Sometimes I use alot, depends on the framers. Well Gene, site built stairs sometimes take a little persueding.SYP stringers tend to move after most of them is cut the time I get there, things are usually quite curvacious.like you and Mike noticed in the small gappage between the stringer and the sheetrock.If I just nailed the risers tight to the stringers, and left them like that, they'd more than likely not be plumb or straight.so I knock them that way, then mark for plumb.remember how I said people love to climb up the risers.witness marksAs for the adhesive shims, I've been doing that for maybe 12 years. Level the other end of the tread, and backnail the bejeezus out of the whole shebang.I nail off the rest of the tread to the stringers using a big speed square aginst the riser as a guide.#43 Lastly, I pound all the backnails with a hammer, to draw them up tightly to the tread.time for a raise, ha! I backnail one 1 3/8" 1/4" crown staple through the riser into the tread. The riser keeps the front edge of the tread level.Next, I use a clamp to pull the back of one end of the tread up, so it's level across it's depth. I nail off the nosing edge with one nail in each stringer. Pop the tread back in, make sure the tread is tight to the top of the preceeding riser, and butts to the plumb lines I drew on the skirts for the back riser. Next, I knock all the risers around to get them plumb, straight and close to the same distance apart.Now that I know my tread width (s), I rip them with a 5° back bevel so they'll fit nice and tight to the risers.Okay, I'm steppin' up#40 Shows the tread jig, look familiar? #41 The jig did ok I pull the tread out, sand off cut marks and anything else that the floor finishers will have trouble getting to later.#42 I have goobered copious amounts of PL adhesive where the riser hits the stringers, and on the stringer tops where the tread sits. I'll need a little wiggle room to get it level. I try to mark all the intersections and cut lines clearly, and scribble out any lines I don't want to cut.I am easily distracted and confused#22 & 23 Woh, after cutting and sanding, it 's gonna be a good day!#26 The inner skirt on the upper flight is set up on 1/4" shims because it gets a cap. I pull that distance hooked from the top of the skirt down the plumb line, mark, and draw a level line.that's the seat cut.#25 & 26 More hieroglyphics. Next, I measure from the tick mark on the floor to bottom of the skirt. ![]() I plumb up all pertinant points, marking the skirt, and making a tick on the floor or tread. Good thing I let the point-up guy go fishing with me LOL.#17, 18 & 20 Time to sit down and work. ![]() Now, I finally get to run the skirts:#21 I drive in two 16d finish nails just below the chalk line, and into some studs, I hope Then I set the prospective skirt board on the nails and tack it to the wall.
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